Our Native Foods — A Discussion with Jan Timbrook
by Greg Ellis
Asked to name signature foods of San Luis Obispo County, most people think wine, apples, grass-fed beef, luscious veggies, or strawberries. Those who know a bit of recent history might add dry-farmed almonds, grains, and garbanzo beans. But only a select few go further back in time to name the foods that dominated our area for the majority of 10,000 years: tpiti (acorns), l'ipi (chia), qayas (elderberry) and ch'okoko (toyon).
Jan Timbrook, PhD, curator of ethnography at the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History is one of these few. For decades she has studied and written about the native plants and people of our region, culminating in her recent book Chumash Ethnobotany: Plant Knowledge Among the Chumash People of Southern California. I spoke with Jan last year and discussed her knowledge of the native foods of our region.
Look into any thicket of chaparral or overgrown oak forest in the county. Then, look again. Pre-colonial Chumash knew better than anyone the secret uses of these plants. While botanical knowledge and practices are maintained by modern descendents of the Chumash, many of the original practices have been lost or fallen out of common use. Thanks to the mutual efforts of Chumash consultants and anthropologists such as Jan, some of this ancient lore survives.
Chia
|
The Chumash did not practice agriculture by modern definitions. Instead, they undertook sophisticated practices to influence local ecology towards food production. The Chumash methods of harvesting food have the essence of agriculture in the fertilization, tilling, irrigation, and tending that effectively took place. But instead of using tractors, sprinklers, and petroleum-based fertilizers, the Chumash used natural forces.
For example, fire had similar effects to tilling and fertilizing by clearing land and stimulating the growth of nitrogen-fixing plants that naturally enriched the soil. These intentionally set fires were at the heart of Chumash land management. Fires promoted the growth of seed-bearing grasses and wildflowers such as chia (Salvia columbariae) and edible bulbs, corms and tubers such as Blue Dicks (Dichelostemma capitatum).
Unfortunately, fire bans in Chumash territory came with Spanish governance in 1793 and precise burning techniques have been all but forgotten. Details are pieced together from various historical accounts. The task was likely undertaken by women, who also took responsibility for most seed gathering.
The Chumash possessed a calendar system that may have helped regulate burning with its future effects in mind. Burning mosaics of land every three to five years amounted to crop rotation, allowing regeneration between fires. Fires are thought to have been lit in the early summer, after seed from previous regrowths had been harvested. Fires were also used to drive rabbits out of dense brush so they could be captured and eaten. Acorn crops — a staple of the Chumash diet — may also have been improved by fire that purged the ground of insects, fungi, and overlying vegetation that could damage or hide the nuts.
Recently burned lands were favored by certain plants, especially chia. Native chia, Salvia columbariae, is a distinct species from chia sold in stores, Salvia hispanica, though very similar. Chia and other seeds were harvested using a seed beater to shake the plants and a wide, shallow basket to catch seed. Not all the beaten seed landed in the basket, and some was scattered on the ground. This unintentionally aided in the extensive reseeding of these desirable plants.
Another Chumash practice involved digging bulbs, roots, and tubers. Already encouraged by burning, some of these plants, such as Blue Dicks, actually benefited from this kind of harvesting. Competing vegetation was removed, loosening soil and breaking off reproductive offsets, each one creating a new plant. Experiments by Kat Anderson, author of Tending the Wild, showed that plots of Blue Dicks harvested in such a way proliferated more than in plots left unharvested — the more you harvest the more you get!
Field of Blue Dicks
The Chumash were in touch with their food sources — harvesting, hunting, preparing and preserving — and Chumash society venerated food. Annual fall harvest festivals honored the Earth. Seeds and tobacco along with money were offered at shrines for personal rituals. Seed was thrown on the ground before dancers at large ceremonies. Even chiefs were involved — one of their principal roles was to collect food offerings at ceremonies and maintain supplies in case of local famine.
Toyon Berries
|
Jan noted that we may harbor an idealistic illusion of harmony between the Chumash and nature. In fact, overharvesting probably did occur — there is a documented decline in the size of abalone shells found in Chumash archeological sites. There are also reports of war between towns over prime seed grounds. But overall, Chumash philosophy held that people were responsible for maintaining the harmony and balance in the universe, a belief best symbolized by the winter solstice ceremony where people would "pull" the sun back into the world.
Jan emphasized a disclaimer printed in her book: "While she hopes to share the fascinating world of native foods, she doesn't encourage tramping into the woods in search of it. Individuals may have previously unknown allergies or sensitivities to wild plants. Edible plants can be easily confused with poisonous ones, which can lead to a fatal end."
Moreover, in her opinion, people who have plenty of food should not intrude in wild places, competing with wildlife and threatening habitat. But with that said, there are still opportunities to sample truly native cuisine.
Acorns, especially from city parks, cannot easily be over-harvested. Some edible natives such as toyon, currants, and madrone berries grow as urban landscaping. Modern foragers can incorporate, harvest, and experience these edible natives in their own backyards, reviving the flavors and aromas that defined our land for 10,000 years.
Enjoy this recipe for a refreshing, cranberry-like drink!
Toyon Mead — Collect toyon berries in winter and allow to dry. After rinsing, place one quart of berries in pot. Simmer for fifteen minutes while mashing berries. Strain off liquid and sweeten with honey.
|
